.

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Thursday, December 11, 2014

Part 2: Best Christmas Gifts ON SALE at Pedal Power



Deluxe Tune-Up Special
(gift card)

Regularly: $110.00       NOW: $80




Park PCS-10 Repair Stand



Regularly $199.99           NOW: $149.99


Giro Shoe and Pedal Combo
25% OFF
Giro shoes and pedals of your choice



Feedback Sports Pro Elite with Pouch
 
Just $199.99


Mag Indoor Trainer by Cycleops



Regularly $199.99         NOW: $150.00

Magnetic resistance unit provides a quiet and frictionless ride.
Linear resistance boosts workout intensity to match each pedal stroke and gear click


Come see these and many other great products at Pedal Power!






1904 Staples Mill Rd.
Richmond, VA 23230
(804) 658-2126
randy@pedalpowerbicycles.com
www.pedalpowerbicycles.com

Wednesday, December 3, 2014

Quick and Easy Christmas Gifts for Cyclists Part 1

CHRISTMAS 2014 GIFT IDEAS



 

SIGMA BC8.12

Regularly: $49.99
Now: $35.00






8 Functions: Speed, Distance, Average speed, Maximum speed, Total distance, Clock, Ride time, Total Ride Time 
  
Full text display with large easy to read digits




Udderly Smooth
Chamois Cream

Reduces Friction and Prevents skin chafing

Regularly: $15.00
Now: $10.00
Park Tool Chain Cleaning Kit    

Regularly:
NOW:



CM-5.2 Chain Scrubber, GSC-1 GearClean Brush, 8oz bottle of CB-2 Citrus Chain Brite







Cygolite Metro Rechargeable Headlight







Metro 400

Regularly: $59.99
NOW: $45.99

Metro 550
Regularly: $79.95
NOW: $59.95



 
1904 Staples Mill Rd.
Richmond, VA 23230
(804) 658-2126
randy@pedalpowerbicycles.com
www.pedalpowerbicycles.com

Friday, November 21, 2014

8 Steps to a Fixed Flat Tube

How To Fix a Flat Tube


Sooner or later, you are going to get a flat tire. And while the prospect of changing a flat can be daunting to those who have never done it, it is fairly easy with a little practice.




Here’s what you will need to change your own tube:



 

Giant Control Tower 1




1. Pump:
  • A good floor pump is a godsend for changing flats at home. It attaches easily to the tube’s valve and inflates the tire quickly. It also has a pressure gauge so you can accurately inflate the tire to the recommended pressure (which you can find on the side of the tire.)
 Park Tool Dial Adjust Frame Pump



  • A small hand pump is essential for roadside or trail side repairs. These require more effort to inflate the tire, but work well enough to get you home without issue. Just make sure the pump is set up for your particular valve type.Most have valve interfaces that can change to presta or Schrader. Most do not have pressure gauges, so you should learn to feel with your hands what a properly inflated tire feels like before using the hand pump.

 Giant Control Blast CO2


  • Those who have changed a few flats can also opt for a CO2 cartridge system. It inflates extremely fast, but requires some practice to use.



Sunlite Tubes

2. Spare tube:
  • Make sure you have the right tube for your tire type. Tubes come in many sizes and configurations. A tube that is too wide or narrow can be difficult to install. A tube with the wrong valve type can be impossible to install. Your bike shop can help you make the right choice. Do not store your tubes with sharp objects like tools which can puncture the tube before you ever use it.

 Pedro's DH Tire Lever



3. Tire levers:
  • While many tires can be removed by hand, tire levers make the job easier. For stubborn tires, levers areessential. Get several as they are inexpensive, easy to misplace and you are likely to break one eventually.

Before every ride, check that your tires are properly inflated. The tires on your bike have a pressure range printed on the side of the tire. Within that range, your ideal pressure can vary depending on your weight, the type of terrain and riding style. Your local shop should be able to help you decide. Keep in mind that inner tubes are slightly porous, meaning they can lose some air over time—if you haven’t ridden in two weeks and the tire is low, you may just need to re-inflate.



Changing your tube is the same process, whether you are in the garage before the ride or on the side of the road. Here are the steps:


1. Remove wheel

  • Loosen the brake on the wheel to be removed. Have your bike shop show you how to do this. (Make sure toreinstall correctly to avoid potentially dangerous situations down the road!!!)
  • Your bike likely comes with quick release levers that attach the wheel to the bicycle frame or fork. Flip the lever to the open position (curved side of the lever facing out.) While holding the opposite end of the skewer (the nut onthe other side of the wheel) turn the lever counter-clockwise a couple of turns to loosen it.
  • The wheel should drop out of the frame or fork at this point. On the rear wheel, you may need to pull the chainout of the way to ease removal.
2. Inspect the outside of the tire for thorns, glass or other damage.
  • Carefully remove any offending bits, otherwise they will just re-puncture the tire when you reinstall.
  • Inspect the tire’s sidewall for any holes, also.
3. Remove one side of the tire and remove the tube
  • Starting near the valve stem, work the tire over the rim bead either by hand or with a tire lever. Continue working the entire side of the tire off.
  • Remove the tube entirely. Visually inspect for signs of damage
4. Inspect tire and rim for offender
  • Carefully run your hand along the inside of the tire to feel for sharp objects and remove them. Your tire lever canbe used to push the thorn or glass from the inside of the tire out if you cannot remove it otherwise by hand.
  • If you do not find a thorn or glass, inspect the rim bed of the wheel. Sometimes the rimstrip moves out of place,exposing the spoke holes to the tube. If this is the case, work the rimstrip back over the spoke holes. If you cannotdo this, duct tape works in a pinch. (Also, always carry a little bit of duct tape.)
5. Partially inflate tube and reinstall tire
  • Now you are ready to put in the new tube. Inflate the new tube a slight amount, just enough that it begins totake some shape. Too much and the tire will be difficult to install.
  • Again starting at the valve stem, work the tire back into the rim channel until it is all the way back on, taking care not to pinch the tube. Make sure the tire is all the way on and the tube is not protruding, or it could lead to a blowout.
6. Reinflate tire to proper pressure and inspect
  • If you have a floor pump, you can do this quickly and accurately. If you have a hand pump it will take a littlemore time, but you can still get the proper tire pressure.
  • Inspect the tire one more time to make sure it is on the rim securely.
7. Reinstall wheel
  • Doing the reverse of step 1, reinstall the wheel.
  • Make sure the wheel is in the dropouts properly and is straight
  • Retighten the quick release nut.
  • Close the quick release lever: the quick release lever should begin engaging when it is perpendicular (90degrees) to the wheel. Tighten the lever rest of the way.
  • Make sure to tighten the brakes!
8. Ride On.





1904 Staples Mill Rd.
Richmond, VA 23230
(804) 658-2126
randy@pedalpowerbicycles.com
www.pedalpowerbicycles.com

Friday, October 31, 2014

The Ultimate Enduro Machine - 2015 Giant Reign Advanced 27.5 is an Impressive Contender

 

 

2015 Giant Reign Advanced Completes Giant's Extensive 27.5 Line-up



Built around a lightweight, stiff and super-strong chassis, Reign Advanced 27.5 features an Advanced composite mainframe with an ALUXX SL rear swingarm.

It gives enduro, all-mountain and aggressive trail riders 6.3 inches/160mm of rear travel with the smooth, fully active Maestro suspension system. In addition to being the lightest Reign that Giant has ever produced (2,650 grams without shock, size medium), it delivers the added efficiency and control of 27.5 wheel technology. Giant engineered new geometry for the Reign Advanced 27.5 that gives it a lower center of gravity and longer wheelbase compared to its 26-inch-wheel predecessor. It also features a custom fork offset of 46mm that optimizes handling with the new wheel size.

"Giant is reintroducing its 160mm travel Reign in 2015 after a one-year absence. First appearing in 2005 as a 26er, its return (and overhaul) makes Giant’s dedicated-to-27.5 line-up complete. Besides wheel size, there are a few other significant changes as well.

First, the mainframe on the Advanced 1 is carbon fiber with an aluminum rear triangle and stealthy internal cable routing. Next up is a slack 65-degree head angle matched to an adjustable 130mm to 160mm RockShox Pike RC with a custom, 46mm offset to keep steering responsive at slower speeds. Also, the Overdrive 2 head tube is gone in favor of the original design—an external shell that’s still massive but the bearings are now standard 1 1/8 to 1 1/2 taper so you can easily switch out the fork or stem if you want. The Advanced also has a 125mm RockShox dropper post instead of Giant’s own name brand model seen elsewhere.

Rear suspension sticks with the successful Maestro design that utilizes four pivots and two links. It’s a proven performer on long and short travel bikes across Giant’s full-suspension line. The shock is the new RockShox Monarch Plus DebonAir RC3. DebonAir signifies an increase in both the positive and negative air chambers which is claimed to increase initial stroke sensitivity and overall plushness as it moves through the travel. It also has a three-position platform lever: Open, Pedal and Lock."
-Mike Cushionbury
www.dirtragmag.com




1904 Staples Mill Rd.
Richmond, VA 23230
(804) 658-2126
randy@pedalpowerbicycles.com
www.pedalpowerbicycles.com

Monday, October 27, 2014

RIDING TECHNIQUE: Incorporate These Easy Tips To Keep From Getting Too Tired Or Sore

Photo Cred: www.Ilovebicycling.com

Body Moves To Help Smooth The Ride

Stop And Stretch 

Stretching helps flexibility and comfort yet it's often overlooked by cyclists. All it takes though, is thinking of it and taking a break to loosen up (we don't recommend on-the-bike stretching because you might crash). One great stretch for the back that's easy to do is standing straight, raising your arms over your head and reaching as high as you can. 


Hold this position for thirty seconds or so and you'll feel much looser. Also, bend your neck to both sides and to the front and back and hold for a few seconds in each position to ease any tightness. To relieve pressure on the hands and arms that causes fatigue and pain, every few miles remove one hand at a time from the bars and shake it out by your side.

Breathe Deeply 

Another good relaxation techniques is monitoring your breathing. Many athletes tense up when exercising and actually hold their breath, which increases muscle tension and fatigue. If you can exhale completely every few minutes and draw in deep breaths of fresh air, you'll help your muscles relax and remain fresher.


Refresh Yourself
 
On warm rides, a great pick-up is washing the face, neck, hands and arms with cool water (usually available on organized rides; or stop at a store). This will remove any salt, cool the skin and feel great.

Always Hook A Thumb 


While it's important to relax your body to smooth the ride, don't mistake relaxation for a lackadaisical approach to safety. Be sure to keep a secure grip on the handlebars at all time, especially as trails get rougher. Remember to always keep at least one thumb hooked beneath the handlebar. It'll prevent your hands from slipping off the bars, a dangerous mishap that can occur if you grip without hooking a thumb.

Softer May Be Better 


Finally, something that can make it much easier to relax is using lower tire pressure when riding off road. This will soften the tires helping to absorb shocks from the trail and keeping them from reaching your body. Many cyclists ride with 50 to 60 psi but a pressure of 34 to 40 will feel much more comfortable as well as provide better traction and control.






1904 Staples Mill Rd.
Richmond, VA 23230
(804) 658-2126
randy@pedalpowerbicycles.com
www.pedalpowerbicycles.com

Friday, October 24, 2014

2015 Giant TCR Advanced SL - Precision Boosted and Faster than Ever

Giant Packs the TCR Advanced SL With Features and The Latest Technology 

It’s no secret that the TCR Advanced SL wins a lot of pro races. But the reason for its dominance is something our competitors do keep secret: Giant is the only major manufacturer that controls every stage of design and production, from raw carbon thread to this finished racing machine. 

The others don’t—and the results speak for themselves. Tests show that TCR Advanced SL is the lightest, stiffest, best-riding road bike in its class. 

The all-new TCR Advanced SL shatters the mold of every composite bike that came before it. It uses Advanced SL-grade composite and innovative manufacturing techniques that make it the lightest, stiffest, and most efficient road frame ever produced by Giant.

Steering precision is boosted by the new oversize OverDrive 2 headtube/fork combination. The MegaDrive downtube and PowerCore bottom bracket improve power transfer and efficiency. And the integrated seatpost, a hallmark Giant innovation, reduces frame weight and adds compliance. Ridden to countless victories by Giant pro riders, the TCR Advanced SL is a pure racing machine.


1. Giant's innovative oversized fork steerer-tube design increases front-end stiffness and enhances steering performance. The tapered steerer and oversized bearings( 1 /14" top - 1 1/2" bottom) boost torsional steering stiffness so you can sprint and corner with supreme precision.

2. As the pioneer of the integrated seatpost, Giant continues to improve its design with lighter weight (approximately 45 grams of weight savings, compared to a standard composite seatpost), improved aerodynamics and an even greater "tuned" forgiving ride feel. An adjustable saddle clamp offers 10 or 23 mm of offset for precise saddle position

3. Advanced SL toptubes are "grafted" to the seattube using filament winding and co-molding. This complex process involves hand weaving the two tubes together, then re-molding the area under heat and high pressure to unify the junction — resulting in a lighter, stronger junction than with traditional molding.

4. Carbon Nanotube Technology refers to a microscopic polymer added to Giant's custom-blended resin. Acting like miniature buttresses, CNT particles strengthen the layers of composite. Frames treated with CNT are 14% more impact resistant than those that aren't.

5. Continuous Fiber Technology is a new manufacturing process that allows Giant to construct the front triangle of Advanced SL bicycles with larger — and therefore fewer — sections of composite material. With fewer pieces and junctions, the frames are up to 100 grams lighter and significantly stronger.

6. Giant's all-new chainstay integrated wireless data transmitter is called RideSense. The fully integrated, removable transmitter sends wheelspeed and cadence information directly to any ANT+ compatible computer.

7. Giant's all-new composite bottom-bracket shell saves 15 grams over its alloy-reinforced predecessor, while all-new composite dropouts save an additional 15 grams. High-compression, multidirectional composite ensures long life.

8. Free of alloy tips, Giant's all-new composite fork and frame dropouts save 15 grams over their predecessors. High compression, multi-directional composite ensures long life — even after repeated clamping

Come check out our great selection of Giant, Fuji, and KHS Bikes today!



1904 Staples Mill Rd.
Richmond, VA 23230
(804) 658-2126
randy@pedalpowerbicycles.com
www.pedalpowerbicycles.com

Friday, October 17, 2014

2014 Fuji Sportif 2.3 Road Bike - Comfort, Quality and Versatility in One Great Bike | Pedal Power Bicycles

The 2014 Fuji Sportif 2.3 is Calling All Riders Who Want All-Day Comfort and Speed

Of course, speed is not the only factor in choosing a bike. You want a bike that allows you to discover the joy of the journey, and take in the simple pleasure of riding. If this sounds like you, the 2014 Fuji Sportif 2.3 is an excellent bike for you!



 This is the first Fuji bike group that features road type disc brakes. Fuji finds that adding this more dependable and stronger braking mechanism will help newer riders feel more safe and comfortable when riding. features Fuji's A2-SL frame, which is stiff, lightweight and durable, but also has a more upright and relaxed riding geometry that won't push your body to the limits on longer rides. The FC-770 carbon fiber fork gives some zip to the bike, but also soaks up road vibrations for a more comfortable ride. Integrated shifting from Shimano ensures riders remain in control when shifting gears on the most challenging roads.


If you are interested in any sort of commuting, you can also add fenders and racks to the bike. Bottom line — if you are looking for an entry level road, commuting, or touring bike — the Fuji Sportif 2.3 is a great option for you.





1904 Staples Mill Rd.
Richmond, VA 23230
(804) 658-2126
randy@pedalpowerbicycles.com
www.pedalpowerbicycles.com



Wednesday, October 15, 2014

[Pics and Video] 2015 Giant Bikes - The 27.5 Revolution | Pedal Power Bicycles

A Total of Seven New Men’s Series and 28 Global Models Feature 27.5 Wheel Technology, Which Giant Has Been Developing For the Past Two Years.

Anthem 27.5 0


Giant, the world leader in cycling technology, is revolutionizing its 2014 off-road lineup with a full range of new bikes featuring 27.5-inch wheel technology. Some of Giant’s most recognizable and successful off-road models—including XtC, Anthem, and Trance—will now include 27.5 choices in both composite and aluminum frame options.


Several prototype Giant 27.5 bikes have already been ridden to major race wins in pro XC and enduro competition.
XTC Advanced 27.5 2 (HardTail)


“The diversity and range of our new collection of 27.5 bikes shows how strongly we believe in this new technology,” said Kevin Dana, Giant Global Off-Road Category Manager. “That belief is founded on a lot of internal research and testing. We worked with a wide variety of riders—and from our World Cup XC pros to our enduro riders, all of them feel strongly that the end result is improved performance.”


Research and ride testing in different off-road racing disciplines, and in a variety of terrain, showed that the 27.5 wheel size delivers significant performance advantages in three key areas: weight, efficiency and control. Bikes with 27.5-inch wheels displayed some of the best characteristics of 26 and 29-inch wheels—but without the compromises associated with each.

Talon 27.5
Truly capitalizing on the advantages of 27.5 required a deep commitment to engineering and development. Giant’s team of engineers, product developers and athletes looked at each new model individually, dialing in the frame features and geometry to optimize the new wheel size for particular types of terrain and performance goals.

The end result is a full line of purpose-built 27.5 performance bikes for all different types of off-road riding. From the XC World Cup-proven XtC Advanced 27.5 hardtail to the trail and enduro focused Trance Advanced 27.5, each series has undergone extensive development from the ground up.





Trance Advanced 27.5 2
For elite-level Giant XC pros like Swedish national champion Emil Lindgren, the lighter weight and quicker acceleration offer a huge advantage.

“When you’re racing cross-country, you’re pushing the limits,” said Lindgren. “The heart rate is maxed and you want a bike that responds and makes the effort feel a little easier. Going from a 26 to a 29, there’s a big difference in the way the bike rides. But with 27.5, it’s the perfect balance of quickness and acceleration of a 26 with the traction and stability of a 29er.”

To meet the needs of racers like Lindgren and teammate Michiel van der Heijden, who recently won the Dutch XC Championships aboard a prototype 27.5 hardtail, Giant developed 27.5 versions of its XtC platform in both Advanced-grade composite (XtC Advanced 27.5) and ALUXX SL aluminum (XtC 27.5).

For technical XC terrain, Giant developed 27.5 versions of its legendary Anthem platform, available in both Advanced-grade composite (Anthem Advanced 27.5) and ALUXX SL aluminum (Anthem 27.5) frame options featuring Maestro Suspension with 4 inches of travel. Giant Factory Off-Road rider Adam Craig played a major role in the bike’s development, and rode his prototype Anthem Advanced 27.5 to a win at an Oregon Enduro Series event earlier this summer.

“For cross-country racing, the 27.5 offers a very clear advantage,” Craig said. “It’s not just about how fast a bike rolls, but how fast it can be in real racing scenarios, and that involves accelerating, braking, climbing, a lot of low-speed stuff. A bike that’s a little more nimble and quick is ultimately an advantage.”


For more aggressive trail and enduro riding—the type that Australian enduro racer Josh Carlson has been racing with his prototype Trance Advanced 27.5, which features 5.5 inches of Maestro rear suspension technology—the added control and stability makes a huge difference.

“It feels amazing,” said Carlson, who rode a prototype Trance Advanced 27.5 to several enduro race wins in North America this spring. “You can charge through rock gardens and gnarly terrain with total confidence that it’s going to be quicker and faster and safer than any bike you’ve ever ridden. You can come into corners quicker and exit with so much more speed.”

The Trance platform is also available with the Advanced-grade composite frame (Trance Advanced 27.5)or ALUXX SL aluminum (Trance 27.5). Both the Trance Advanced 27.5 and Trance 27.5 also come in an “SX” model for more aggressive, gravity-oriented riding.

In addition to all of the above off-road performance models, Giant is also making its 27.5 technology available to more riders of all levels with its full line of Talon 27.5 ALUXX aluminum hardtail off-road bikes.

For 2015, Giant is offering the following off-road series with 27.5 technology:
XtC Advanced 27.5 (Advanced-grade composite hardtail XC)
XtC 27.5 (ALUXX SL aluminum hardtail XC)
Anthem Advanced 27.5 (Advanced-grade composite full-suspension XC)
Anthem 27.5 (ALUXX SL aluminum full-suspension XC)
Trance Advanced 27.5 (Advanced-grade composite full-suspension trail and enduro)
Trance 27.5 (ALUXX SL aluminum full-suspension trail and enduro)
Talon 27.5 (ALUXX aluminum hardtail XC)



1904 Staples Mill Rd.
Richmond, VA 23230
(804) 658-2126
randy@pedalpowerbicycles.com
www.pedalpowerbicycles.com



Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Have You Ever Thought Of Trying Cyclocross?

Have Some Fun in The Rain and Mud this Fall and Winter Season





With the Triathlon and Road Racing season coming to an end, many of us default to the cozy indoors in wake of the colder weather.












But why train in the cold?  What too many triathletes and roadies run into late in the season is a lack of motivation.  It is easier to stay inside, not train, and overeat in light of the holiday season.  The bottom line is training requires a purpose.  Your purpose to keep training through this winter can be cyclocross. 








First, don’t fear the mud.  Yes, cyclocross can get muddy…..OK... very muddy but that is not to fear.  Falling in the mud is no big deal and the most you will suffer from a crash is a mild mannered heckle from spectators.  This sport will challenge your bicycle handling skills in a new way and make you an all around better bicycle handler.




Secondly, the cost of the equipment is nothing to keep you from getting started.  For many casual cross racers, the entry-level cyclocross bike they buy can second as a wet weather bike and then also as a commuter.  Rest assured this bike will get its fair bit of use and will save that fancy road or tri bike from the salty wet muck of early spring roads.

Come in to Pedal Power today. We would love to help you with any of your cycling needs.



1904 Staples Mill Rd.
Richmond, VA 23230
(804) 658-2126
randy@pedalpowerbicycles.com
www.pedalpowerbicycles.com

Monday, October 6, 2014

Ride Faster and Finish Stronger Than Ever!

7 Best Core Training Exercises For Cyclists

With the weather cooling down, how great it is to have some time to focus on your core! You know how important it is to have strong leg muscles when cycling, because they provide the most tangible source of power. If you have strong leg muscles, this is how you are able to start every ride strong and get up to a nice riding speed. Soon though, you find yourself getting back aches, and feeling tired in the saddle. The problem is, "You can have all the leg-strength in the world, but without a stable core you won't be able to use it efficiently," says Graeme Street, founder of Cyclo-CORE, and a personal trainer in Essex, Connecticut. Your abs and lower back are the vital foundation from which all movement, including your pedal stroke, stems. What's more, a solid core will help eliminate unecessary upper-body movement, so all the energy you produce is delivered into a smooth pedal stroke. It only takes about 10 minutes to complete this intense routine designed by Street Dimity McDowell of Bicycling.com and Street say that if you do this routine, in this order, three times a week you will create a core that lets you ride faster, longer, more powerfully - and finish stronger than ever.  

1. Boxer Ball Crunch         

What It Works:
Transverse abdominus, obliques, lower back A. Lie with the middle of your back on a stability ball, your knees bent 90 degrees and your feet flat on the floor. Place your hands behind your head, but don't pull on your neck. B. Squeezing your belly button toward your spine, lift your upper back off the ball. Keeping your shoulders off the ball, trace a clockwise oval with your torso. Apply pressure with your lower back to keep the ball still through the entire motion. After 15 clockwise ovals, trace 15 counterclockwise.  


Why It Works: Despite the straightforward motion of the bike, your body moves in three directions: forward as you head down the road, vertically as your legs pedal up and down, and laterally as your hips and upper body rock side to side. "This fluid, circular exercise builds control," says Street, and that helps you minimize lateral torsion and wasted motion. 


 2. Power Bridge      

What It Works: Hip flexors, glutes, lower back A. Lying on your back, bend your knees and place your heels near your glutes. Arms are at your sides, palms down. B. In one smooth motion, squeeze your glutes, raise your hips off the floor and push up from your heels to form a straight line from shoulders to knees; toes come off the floor slightly. Hold for two seconds. Keeping your toes raised, lower yourself three-quarters of the way to complete one rep. Do 20 repetitions.  

Why It Works: In addition to stretching the hip flexors, often extremely stiff in cyclists, the bridge strengthens the link between your lower back and glutes. 

3. Hip extension          

What It Works: Lower back, hamstrings, glutes A. Lying with your hips and stomach on the stability ball, put your hands on the floor directly under your shoulders, and extend your legs with toes resting on the floor. B. With a straight spine and shoulder blades back, as if you're trying to make them touch, lift both legs off the floor, keeping them straight. If possible, raise them slightly higher than parallel to the floor. Hold for two seconds and lower. Do 20 reps. 

 Why It Works: This movement builds backside strength, for added efficiency on the second half of the pedal stroke.  

   
4. Plank      

What It Works: Transverse abdominus, upper and lower back A. Lying on your stomach, place your elbows under your shoulders with forearms and hands on the floor. B. Lift your hips off the floor, keeping your back straight and abs tight, and rest on your toes. Aim for 60 seconds.  

Why It Works: The plank builds the strength and muscular endurance you need to ride powerfully in the drops or in an aero position long after others have surrendered to the top of the handlebar. 

5. Transverse Plank     

What It Works: Transverse abdominus and obliques A. Lie on your right side, with your right elbow under your shoulder, forearm in front for stability, and stack your left foot on your right. Raise your left arm over your head. B. In one motion, lift your hips to create a straight line down your left side. Lower your hips a few inches off the floor; do 10 to 15 reps, then switch sides. 
 
Why It Works: Strong obliques improve your stability in the saddle, letting you take on hairpin corners with more control and speed.  

6. Scissors Kick     

What It Works: Transverse abdominus, hip flexors, inner and outer thighs A. Lying on your back with legs straight, place both hands palms down under your lower back. B. Pushing your elbows down into the floor and pulling your belly button toward your spine, raise your shoulders off the floor and look toward the ceiling. Raise your leg 4 inches off the ground and scissor them: left leg over right, then right over left. That's one rep. Work up to 100.  

Why It Works:  A comprehensive movement that connects key cycling muscles, the kick also builds inner-thigh muscles, which help you achieve hip, knee and forefoot alignment for a proper and efficient pedal stroke  

7. Catapult      

What It Works: Entire core A. Sitting with a slight bend in your knees, press your heels against the floor. Extend arms to the front at shoulder height, palms facing each other. B. With a straight spine and upward gaze, inhale deeply, then exhale and slowly lower your torso to the floor over five counts as you inhale. Arms are overhead. C. In one smooth movement, leading with the arms, exhale and explode back to the starting position. Do 20 reps.  
Why It Works: Contrary to its name, the catapult encourages supreme body control. 


 8. Boat Pose     

What It Works: Transverse abdominus, lower back A. Sit, resting both hands lightly behind you, and lean back until your torso is at a 45-degree angle. B. Keeping your legs together, lift them off the floor as you extend arms forward at shoulder height. Abs are tight, as thighs and torso form a 90 degree angle. If your hamstrings are tight, you'll need to bend your knees a little. Work up to holding for 60 seconds. 


  Why It Works: As with the plank, this pose builds the lower-back stability and core strength needed to remain bent over the handlebar for hours, or to blast up hills without compromising power or speed Following this regimen will give you some improvement in your core strength, riding ability and endurance. Stay Tuned to our blog for more cycling tips! 






1904 Staples Mill Rd.
Richmond, VA 23230
(661) 883-6268
randy@pedalpowerbicycles.com
www.pedalpowerbicycles.com


Wednesday, October 1, 2014

22 Common Cycling Issues and Solutions

Flat Tire? Bike Making A Weird Noise? Maybe These Tips Will Help

 

1. You fixed a puncture, and the new tube keeps going flat

If the holes in the tube are in the bottom, the rim strip may be out of position, allowing the tube to get cut by the spokes. If they're on top, there may be some small sharp object stuck in the tire. Find it by running your fingers lightly around the inside of the tire, then remove it.

2. A remounted tire won't sit right on the rim

Let the air out, wiggle the bad spot around, reinflate to about 30 psi, and roll the bad spot into place with your hands. By pushing the tire in toward the middle of the rim you will be able to see if any of the tube is poking out. When the tube is fully inside the tire, inflate as normal.

3. A patch won't stick to the glue on the tube

Apply more glue and let it dry completely, about five minutes (DO NOT BLOW ON THE GLUE) When you apply the patch, avoid touching its sticky side with your fingers.

4. A creaking sound from the wheels

A spoke may have loosened. If tension is uniform, the sound might be caused by a slight motion of the spokes against each other where they cross. Lightly lube this junction, wiping off the excess.
A creaking sound when you pedal
Tighten the crankarm bolts. If the arm still creaks, remove it, apply a trace of grease to the spindle, and reinstall the arm.

5. The large chainring flexes, and the chain rubs against the front derailleur cage.

Check for loose chainring bolts

6. You have removed the chainrings to clean the crankset, but now the front derailleur doesn't shift right. 

You may have installed a chainring backward. Remove the rings and put them on correctly. Usually, the crankarm bolts fit into indentations on the chainrings. Sight from above too, to make sure there's even spacing between the rings.

7. While trying to remove or adjust a crankarm you stripped the threads- Now you can't remove it

Ride your bike around the block a few times. The crankarm will loosen and you'll be able to pull it off.

8. Shifter housing rubs the frame, wearing a spot in the frame

Put clear tape beneath the housings where they rub.

9. Noisy sloppy shifting can't be remedied by rear derailleur adjustment

The cassette lockring might be loose, allowing the cogs to move slightly and rattle around on the hub. You need a special tool to tighten the lockring fully, but you can spin it tight enough with your fingers to ride safely home or to a stop.

10. The cog cassette is getting rusty

A little rust won't damage the cogs quickly, so it's not a major concern. Usually, using a little more lube will prevent additional rust, and riding will cause the chain to wear away the rust while you're pedaling.

11. In certain gears, pedaling cause loud skipping

There may be debris between the cogs. If you can see mud, grass, leaves, twigs, or any sort of foreign matter trapped between cogs, dig it out. It's probably keeping the chain from settling all the way down onto the cog to achieve a proper mesh. If there's no debris, a cog is probably worn out. Most often this is a sign that the chain and cassette will have to be replaced.

12. Front derailleur won't shift precisely to a chainring

Check that the cage is parallel to the chainrings (when viewed from above), and loosen and reposition the derailleur if necessary. If it's parallel, you probably need to adjust the high- and low-limit screws, best done by a shop.

13. The rear derailleur makes a constant squeaking noise

The pulleys are dry and need lubrication. Drip some light lube on the sides, then wipe off the excess.

14. Braking feels mushy, even though the pads aren't worn out

The cable probably stretched. Dial out the brake-adjuster barrel (found either on the caliper or on the housing closer to the lever) by turning it counterclockwise until the pads are close enough to the rim to make the braking action feel as tight as you want.

15. Braking feels grabby

You probably have a ding or dent in the rim. This hits the pad every revolution, causing the unnerving situation. Take your bike into the shop.

16. One pad drags against the rim or stays significantly closer to the rim than the other

Before messing with the brakes, open the quick-release on the wheel, recenter the wheel in the frame and see if that fixes the problem. (This is the most common solution.) If the wheel is centered but a pad still rubs, you need to recenter the brake. On most modern brakesets this is done by turning a small adjustment screw found somewhere on the side or top of the caliper. (There may be one screw on each side, as well.) Turn the screw or screws in small increments, watching to see how this affects the pad position. If you center the brake and the wheel, and a pad still drags on the rim, it probably wore unevenly from being misadjusted; sand the pads flat and recenter everything. 

 

17. With each pedal stroke you hear a click coming from the saddle

The pedal may have loosened. Tighten it.

18. Squealing Brakes

Wipe the rim to remove any oil or cleaning reside. If this doesn't work, scuff the pads with sandpaper or a file. Still noisy? The pads need to be loosened, then toed in; an adjustment that makes the front portion touch the rim before the back- an easy fix for a shop, a tortuous process for a first timer.

19. Creaking Saddle

Dip a tiny amount of oil around the rails where they enter the saddle, and into the clamp where it grips the rails. Heritage purists take note: Leather saddles sometimes creak the same way that fine leather shoes can. There's not much you can do about this.

20. You can never remember which way to turn the pedals

Treat the right-side pedal normally — righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. The left side pedal has reverse threads (to keep it from unscrewing during pedaling). If that's confusing, just remember this simple phrase: Back off. This can remind you that, with the wrench engaged above the pedal, you ALWAYS turn toward the back of the bike to remove the pedal. 

21. You installed a pedal into the wrong crankarm - The left pedal into the right arm or vice versa

You can remove the pedal, but the crankarm will have to be replaced; its threads are softer than the pedal's and are now stripped out. ALWAYS check the pedals before installing. There is usually an R for right or an L for left stamped onto the axle. 

22. You pulled apart your headset to regrease it, and now the headset feels tight no matter how you adjust it

The bearing retainers are probably in upside down.

Come and see us at Pedal Power if you have more questions or to check out our great selection of bikes!


1904 Staples Mill Rd.
Richmond, VA 23230
(804) 658-2126
randy@pedalpowerbicycles.com
www.pedalpowerbicycles.com